HURGHADA - AREA
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HURGHADA
The area either side of the Straits of Gubal is mainly the preserve of liveaboards.
Flanked in the west be the islands of Gubal and Shedwan and in the east by the reef
systems of Shab Ali and Shab Mahmoud, it is well beyond the day boat range of either
Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada although some boats do make the 12-14 hour day trip
from Sharm to reach the world famous wreck of the Thistlegorm. Crossing the straits
can be rough and sometimes downright impossible in all but the largest ships. The
areas around Shedwan Island are closed to diving as this is a military area.
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Shab El Erg
The most northerly site for day boats out of Hurghada. A huge horseshoe shaped
reef there are many dive sites on all sides. The north point is home to Mantas
in season. The lagoon is dotted with ergs and is renowned for sightings of
the resident dolphin community, divers have spent up to 30 minutes with dolphin
pod here.
Gota Shab El Erg
nearby is a little known site but well worth a visit. The whole area teems
with life, unicorns, scorpion fish, groupers, morays, emperor angel fish, blue spotted
rays and underneath the table corals look out for white tips resting in the sand.
In the sandy channel between the main reef and the gota you will find cone shells,
and flatfish.
Shab Abu Nugar
This T shaped reef has a shallow plateau to the west with numerous small
ergs and two small sub reefs Gota Abu Nigar and Shab Iris. Some parts of this reef
system are positively dull while others are stunning. If you can dive the stem
of the T on the north side you will find three small ergs and the diving
there is almost virginal. You will find broom tail wrasse here as well as parrot
fish and unicorn fish.
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Umm Gammar
This offshore Island is surrounded by good diving on all sides. The south end has
a shallow plateau where the moorings are located this location is the most used.
For first timers at Umm Gamar the dive will take place from the plateau, moving
eastwards to the drop off then north along the wall. After a short swim against
the current you reach three pinnacles close together, chimneys reach through the
pinnacles toward the surface. After exploring this area you take advantage of the
light current to drift back to the corner of the plateau where three small ergs
are found, covered in glass fish. Finish the dive on the plateau exploring the numerous
coral heads and reef fish. The plateau is home to Napoleons, Emperor Angels and
free swimming Morays. The east and west side have awesome drift dives and the northern
tip or halg has a magnificent coral garden but is only accessible in
very good weather. Big groupers and lots of sweepers live in the multiple
caves found along the eastern and western walls and drop offs of this tiny islands
fringing reef.
Shaab Ruhr Umm Gamar
Literally the reef of Umm Gamar, this reef lies 1km south of Umm Gamar and is the
tip of an undersea mountain. The reef wall drops to around 15m on the west side,
and is peppered with many caves and overhangs, home for sweepers and glass fish,
here the sandy plateau slopes away gently to 30m with the drop off beyond. On the
east side the slope is much steeper and drops quickly to the depths, the diving
here is superb and can be most often done as a drift. This whole area offers superb
wall diving with possibilities of encountering grey reef sharks and good-sized groupers
as well as morays, big tuna, and blue spotted rays. On the south east slope lies
the wreck of an Egyptian patrol boat which is well worth a visit.
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Careless Reef
An offshore reef Carless has two large ergs rising from a shallow plateau surrounded
by sheer walls rising from the deep. The area is unprotected and the reef can only
be reached in good weather. The current at the surface is usually from the north
but below it can be from any direction. To the north the drop off is a forest of
coral to the south the plateau slope gently away with small pinnacles of coral.
The whole area swarms with fish of all types there are numerous giant morays encountered
here, as well as the white tip reef sharks and schooling reef fish as well as huge
groupers and the occasional hammerhead in the early morning.
Torfa Fanus (East)
This narrow reef creates a huge calm lagoon, a great place to stop for lunch and
catch the sun before the second dive of the day. The lagoon itself and the
enclosing reef wall is relatively uninteresting and naturally lifeless but on the
seaward side the area bursts with all manner of sea creatures. Swim through the
gap between the first erg and the reef wall and head across the coral garden to
the second erg, home to hordes of glass fish and the very occasional frog fish.
Continue with the reef wall on your left to see the gorgonians on the corner of
the reef where it turns west, if you have enough air continue along the north face
where the corals are pristine, if not return with the reef on your right and explore
the first erg before returning to the boat. Dolphins are often encountered
anywhere around this reef so keep an eye out.
Fanus West
The other end (west) of the Fanus reef has two main ergs and several smaller pinnacles
off its west end. You can follow the reef wall round and explore the reef face and
coral gardens which is full of marauding jacks or if you feel energetic you can
swim the 50m to the furthest erg which is well worth a visit, explore the remaining
erg and pinnacles on the way back. Again watch out for dolphins at anytime
during the dive as they are frequent visitors.
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Wreck of the El Minya (Harbour Wreck)
An Egyptian minesweeper sunk by Israeli fighters, while lying at anchor, in 1969,
the wreck lies in 30m on a rock sea bed. The current here can be strong from
the north and the visibility poor. There is a large debris field which contains
a lot of LIVE munitions, worth a look but carefully. The wreck is only
70m long so there is plenty of time to explore everything including the blast hole
on the starboard side, which can be penetrated. Penetration is not recommended elsewhere
on this wreck. There is not much in the way of coral growth on the wreck but it
does have its resident fish life, the blast hole gives shelter to shoals of glassfish
and a lone anemone and resident clownfish are also in this area. Above the wreck
are shoals of jacks and small barracuda.
Umm Dom (Stoney Beach)
Here the steep cliff of the north east side of Giftun Kebira island plunges into
the depths and continues into the abyss, the reef wall drops to about 12m and then
there is a steep, tumbling slope to the top of the drop off at about 27m. Most of
the life here is above 15m as the lower slope and top the drop off are sometimes
swept by strong currents coming through the straits, stunting the growth of the
coral and giving a lunar appearance. Half way down the slope you will find a lettuce
leaf coral, in the blue you will find fusiliers, and triggers, maybe sharks and
turtles. At the top of the slope you will find morays, scorpion fish, barracuda
and clouds of antheas. Whale sharks have been spotted at this site on occasions.
Shab Sabrina
The reef here pokes out from the east side of Giftun Kebira island and has a coral
garden extending 300-400m north of it. This best way to dive this site is on the
drift dropping 300m out and using the gently current to make your way back to the
boat mooring. The area is known for its beautiful coral landscape rather than its
fish life.
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Small Giftun
Several good dives are found on the reefs around this island, the most famous
the drift dive on the giant fan coral forest at the eastern fringing reefs wall.
Napoleon fish.
Abu Ramada Island
Really two small islands surrounded by a single reef. Good drift dive along
the steep eastern wall, with big fan corals, overhangs and swim throughs. Big groupers.
Gota Abu Ramada
Literally piece of Abu Ramada, A 1km long mid-sea reef sitting on
a shallow plateau about 12-15m deep great diving is found on the east, west and
north side with abundant hard and soft coral and schools of butterflies, banners
and snappers here found swimming around the mountains of coral gardens. Just
off the west end are three large ergs which are well worth a visit.
El Aruk
A cluster of a dozen or so ergs laying in 10m 15m of water, sometimes swept
by a strong current, It is easy to get lost here so count the ergs and take
your compass along. The whole are is home to sweetlips under the ledges, blue
spotted sting rays in the sandy patches and glassfish and basslets swarm on the
erg wall. One erg of note is El Aruk Macroom (the split erg) which has a grotto
through it filled with glassfish and attendant re mouth grouper and numerous lion
fish.
Ras Disha
The fringing reef, which surrounds this cape, offers a good shallow dive on the
hard coral garden found north of the lighthouse with schooling barracuda, napoleon
fish and groupers. Garden eels.
Abu Hashish
A shallow erg field lays on the south side of the island where lots of blue spotted
stingrays, puffer fishes and morays are found swimming through a pinnacle landscape.
A dramatic drift dive can be made along the eastern wall with the chance of big
fish out in the blue.
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SAFAGA AREA
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SAFAGA AREA
The area around Safaga has some great diving the best of it is well offshore in
the areas of Panorama Reef, Middle Reef and Abu Kafan. Some divers say this equals
the great sites of Ras Mohammed and Carless Reef. The whole area Is protected and
the same rules apply as elsewhere so please follow them.
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Shaab Saimen
Hard coral reef running parallel to the shore, seperated by a narrow sandy strip,
and rising from 20-30m to 2m below the surface. Large schools of snapper, goatfish,
fusiliers and other reef fish and the occasional white tip reef shark. Hard coral
formations second to none in the Red Sea.
Ras Abu Soma
Reef lying in front of the shore sloping gently and offers numerous quality dive
sites. Several caves with sweepers, schooling reef fish and occasional sightings
of eagle rays are not uncommon.
Tobia Arba
Also named the seven pillars, rising from a sandy bottom and display
a fascinating landscape of soft corals, glass fish, gorgonians. Giant puffer fish,
blue spotted rays and octopus.
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Tobia Kebira
Isolated reef emerges from a shallow sandy depth and offers interesting diving with
schooling fish, morays and groupers.
Tobia Soraya
Stretching out from Tobia Island, run a chain of pinnacles with a sandy bottom in
between. Stingrays, trigger fish and big shoals of banner fish with gorgonians and
acroporas in the background.
Gamul Soraya
Very colourful dive with hovering sweetlip shoals, banner and butterfly fish. A
small coral block which can be circumnavigated in some half an hour.
Panorama Reef
One of the highlights of the area. Huge coral formation with walls dropping to over
200m. Numerous grottos and overhangs, gorgonians and soft corals. Jacks, barracudas
and reef sharks often visit the area.
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Middle Reef
Northerly reef face slopes to 30m, then plummets vertically too much greater depths.
Hard coral gardens on the east and west corners with acroporas, brain and salad
coral. Fun dive on the south side through the shallow labyrinth of caves, tunnels
and passages. Groupers, puffers and sweetlips.
Umm Hal Hal
Two small pinnacles covered in pristine hard and soft corals rising from 20
m depth. Often strong currents.
Fellow Rocks
Two coral mountains rising from 25m to 3m below the surface. Seldom dived due to
exposure to bad weather conditions on the surface and the strong currents under
the water.
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Abu Kafan
Possibly the best dive in Safaga, a 300m long and narrow barrier features a plateau
in both north and south extremes. Superb wall diving with soft and black coral,
giant fan and gorgonians. Frequent sightings of jacks, barracuda, reef sharks and
the occasional hammerhead.
Shab Sheer
A long barrier creates a shallow lagoon on its south side and hard coral gardens
on both its east and west extremes. Porites, acroporas and fire coral with schooling
jack, snapper and tuna fish.
Wreck of the Salem Express
A Ferry carrying pilgrims returning from Mecca, sank in 1992 after hitting the reef
at night. 300 victims perished in one of the greatest marine tragedies of all time.
There is very little growth on this wreck and few fish have taken up residence apart
from an occasional frogfish. Many divers avoid this site considering it a morbid
forbidding place.
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Gubal Straits - Dive sites between El Gouna and Sinai
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GUBAL STRAITS
The area either side of the Straits of Gubal is mainly the preserve of liveaboards.
Flanked in the west be the islands of Gubal and Shedwan and in the east by the reef
systems of Shab Ali and Shab Mahmoud.
Most of these wrecks are covered during liveaboard trips however, Colona Sharm El
Sheikh runs regular day trips to the wrecks of the Dunraven and of the Thistlegorm.
Crossing the straits can be rough and sometimes downright impossible in all but
the largest ships. The areas around Shedwan Island are closed to diving as this
is a military area.
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The Alternatives
About 30 minutes north west of Ras Mohammed is system of flat top ergs, with names
like lonely mushroom, stingray station and sometimes known as the seven
pinnacles. Best dive is around the third or fourth erg from the east where
the current sweeps through feeding pristine corals with bright vivid colours, however,
the visibility can be effected in rough weather. Stingray Station lies
at the western extremity of the Alternatives; this is an irregular reef and
owes its name to the gathering of stingrays in March and April. The whole area is
known as home to large groupers, turtles and leopard shark.
The Wreck of the Dunraven
At the southern extreme of Shab Mahmoud, a series of shallow reefs and
lagoons among which lies the wreck of the 72m English steamer sunk in 1876 on its
from Bombay to England loaded with timber and spices. The hull lies upside
down and is totally covered in corals (max. depth 29m), the prop and rudder lies
at 19m. The wreck is home to a wide variety of marine life, morays, napoleon,
groupers and schools of glass fish and goat fish inside the wreck.
Wreck of the Thistlegorm
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Small Crack (Small Passage)
Small split in the middle of Shab Mahmouds barrier. The tide empties and fills
the inner lagoon twice daily, thus creating strong currents that promote an impressive
explosion of life. Brilliant soft corals and resident flashlight fish also make
it a premier night dive location - weather permitting.
This World War II wreck is famous around the world. In October 1941 she was at anchor
behind Shab Ali and awaiting orders to move up through the Suez canal to deliver
a cargo of munitions to the British troops in north Africa when German aircraft
bombed the 129m British freighter. The cargo is still virtually intact and includes
railway locomotives, bren gun carriers, trucks motorcycles and a host of ammunition
of all sizes. You need to do at least two dives on this wreck to even get a feel
for the site. Dive the deeper stern section first and the bow for the second dive
of the day. The wreck is home to bat fish, jacks, barracudas, surgeon fish,
nudibranchs and rabbit fish graze the hull. The current here can be strong
and the visibility reduced so ensure a full briefing from you dive guide and enjoy
your visit to this part of British history.
Shag RockBeing so close to its neighbour, the Thistlegorm,
this large circular reef is often overlooked. It offers excellent diving on
pristine coral from any location on its perimeter. The sheltered southern point
is the most dived location offering the opportunity for drifts along the west or
east sides. Weather permitting the northern point hosts the wreck of the Kingston
(‘Sarah H’) just below the surface (max. depth 12m). Large schools of yellow goat
fish, sweet lips abound here and the area regularly patrolled by grey reef sharks.
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Wreck of the Rosalie MollerThis wreck lies in the
channel north of Gubal island and is a dive only for the more experienced as the
visibility can be reduced and the wreck swept by strong currents on occassions.
She was on her way to Alexandria with a cargo of coal when she was sunk by German
aircraft on the 7th October 1941, just two days after the Thistlegorm. Originally
named the Francis she was launched in 1910, she was then purchased by the Moller
Line in 1931 and renamed after the grandchild of one of the company directors. The
wreck is in pristine condition,and home to prolific fish life and a magnificent
array of hard and soft corals, she is 108mts long and sits upright on an even
keel with the bow at 39mts and the keel in 50mts. The top of the mast is at 17mts.
She is rarely dived due to her position and can only be accessed in the best of
weather.
Bluff PointAt the gate of the Straits of Gubal, ‘Bluff
Point’ draws its name from the turbulence created by strong currents that beat the
eastern most wall of the island. Huge fan corals cover an impressive drop off with
caves and glass fish. Sightings of turtles and napoleon fish are not uncommon. An
unknown wreck lies on the reef 300m north of the lighthouse, starting at 5m depth
and sloping to 25m. Rumor has it that this is the wreck of an Egyptian patrol boat
sunk in the 6 day war.
Abu NuhasAlso known as the ‘Ships Graveyard’, this
reef is dangerously positioned close to the busy shipping lanes of the Gulf of Suez.
This reef has claimed more ships than any other in the area. On the north
side are four wrecks laying on a sandy seafloor at the bottom of a steep sloping
reef layered with table corals. The wrecks are sometimes inaccessible in anything
other than a RIB or inflatable due to the heavy swell driving down the length of
the gulf. On the south side is a safe anchorage for liveaboards and two beautiful
ergs, known as Yellow fish reef that make an excellent third dive or night dive
or an alternative if the weather is extremely bad.
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Giannus DThis Greek freighter hit the reef in April
1983 and over the course of two weeks slowly broke in two and sank. She is the most
dived wreck here, Laying in 28m and leaning to port with a fully intact stern section
and an impressive engine room packed with glass fish. Locally known as the
’wood’ wreck for the cargo it was carrying when it sank. The bow is also very interesting
but is a long swim out. She is a great wreck for penetration but beware of disorientation
due to the angle at which she lays. Be weary of the many lion fish and scorpion
fish that call this wreck home. and watch out strong surges in and around the wreck
in rough weather.
CarnaticA British P & O steamer which struck
the reef in 1869. and sank the next day as the weather worsened. She
was a passenger and mail ship and is sometimes known as the ‘wine’ wreck for the
numerous bottles once found in the holds, sadly not many now remain to be seen.
Rumor has it that she sank with forty thousand pounds sterling of gold bullion,
much of which was never recovered. She lays in 29m and now the whole hull is draped
in multicoloured soft corals and the inner areas are full of glass fish complete
with red mouthed grouper sentinel. One davit supports a beautiful table coral.
The wreck is now home to large grouper, octopus and morays and jacks and tuna cruise
overhead.
Chrisoula K
Another Greek ship which sank in 1976, now laying in 30m is fully laden with stone
floor tiles and sometimes called the ‘tile’ wreck for obvious reasons. Early morning
divers may find a white tip reef shark sleeping under the rudder at the stern. Be
weary of very limited and small entry/exit points into the engine room, however,
penetration of the wreck is not recommended due to the unstable nature of the wreck.
Olden
Not a lot is known about this wreck except that it struck the reef in 1981 and is
locally known as the ‘lentil’ wreck for the cargo she carried. Lying in 31m
and completely on its starboard side exposing its huge hull on one side and gaping
cargo holds on the other. Growth on the hull is fairly sparse due to the position
and current. Large morays live in the scattered remains of wreckage on the starboard
side and bat fish circle the topside. Most of the fish in the vacinity of the wreck
are overweight from dining on the lentils leaching from the sacks once contained
in her holds.
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Shab Umm Usk A large horseshoe shaped reef
that shelters a shallow lagoon and offers good shallow diving on coral gardens at
either point. Further around the southern reef exterior provides a steep coral encrusted
wall sloping to 40+m. Playful bottlenose dolphins are found inside the lagoon at
times.
Blind ReefAn Isolated reef south of Siyul Island,
with good diving on its north side. Soft coral, sea whips, many ergs home to glass
fish and turtles can often be found here.
Siyul KebiraThis reef extends around the Island
of Big Siyul and has a varied profile, in some areas sand chutes (wadis) split the
reef face, in others there are overhangs and gullies to explore. The coral growth
is abundant as is the fish life. Most diving here is in swift currents on the drift
but the north eastern point offers a plateau which slopes gently from 10m to 30+m.
Sharks and large rays are often sighted in the deeper water, with schools of sweet
lips and masked butterflies in the shallows.
Siyul Seghira
Despite it Arabic name Little (seghira) Siyul is the largest reef in the area at
over 4km long. It is usually dived as a drift due to the strong currents along the
sloping reef. The depth range is 20-25m, the corals are lush and vibrant and the
fish life is dense and varied. The best dive here is along the north side but can
only be done in moderate weather due to the exposed nature of the reef.
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